Laporan Vintage: Barolo 2009- Winestealssd.com

Barolo 2009,

Piedmont

Tom Maresca sangat kecewa dengan rasa 2009 ini, dengan alasan kegagalan pembuat anggur untuk menangani betapa sukarnya vintaj sebagai salah satu sebab untuk persembahan 'suram' ini.

'Beberapa tahun 2009 membenarkan optimisme mengenai umur panjang mereka, dan kebanyakan pengeluar mengatakan tahun 2009 sebagai vintaj untuk minum jangka pendek'

Model tahun 2009 dari Barolo akan menghadapi pengguna dengan beberapa kebenaran yang keras dan beberapa wain yang keras. Saya merasakan lebih daripada 200 contoh Barolo 2009 di Nebbiolo Prima di Alba pada bulan Mei. Sebilangan besar anggur yang ditawarkan selama lima hari acara tidak hanya kekurangan warna Nebbiolo klasik tetapi hampir tidak menunjukkan aroma atau rasa Nebbiolo.

Saya suka Barolo, dan saya menghormati dan mengagumi banyak pengeluarnya kerana dedikasi dan kejelasan visi mereka. Namun, saya harus mengatakan bahawa pada masa ini persembahan banyak mereka tidak hanya kekurangan, itu menyedihkan.

Sudah tentu ada pengecualian: beberapa pengeluar - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, untuk beberapa - ternyata Barolo cukup minum. Sebilangan kecil - terutamanya Pio Cesare dan Massolino-Vigna Rionda - bahkan percaya pada potensi penuaan anggur mereka. Pendapat itu sering disuarakan oleh pedagang dan pembeli, yang merasakan pilihan wain ini seminggu lebih awal daripada wartawan, dan dengan pengeluar (tidak buta). Tetapi bagi lelangit saya - dan menurut pendapat banyak wartawan yang saya bincangkan - kebanyakan pembuat Barolo nampaknya telah meremehkan kesukaran model lama ini. Beberapa tahun 2009 membenarkan optimisme mengenai umur panjang mereka, dan kebanyakan pengeluar mengatakan tahun 2009 sebagai pilihan lama untuk minum jangka pendek.

Giacomo Conterno, dari kilang anggur Aldo Conterno di komune Monforte, adalah salah satu pengeluar yang lebih bersuara. Dia berkata: ‘2009 adalah vintaj penanam anggur. Pada akhir bulan Ogos, sebilangan pokok anggur [Nebbiolo] sudah hampir matang, dan beberapa pokok anggur yang belum matang - hampir 30 hari perbezaan antara mereka. Apa yang anda lakukan untuk menentukan jenis anggur yang anda buat. ’Penilaian Consorzio yang biasanya optimis untuk penuaian tahun ini sangat dijaga:

'Vintaj tahun 2009 juga akan dikenang kerana corak pematangannya yang tidak teratur ... Dari segi pematangan teknologi, vintaj boleh diletakkan antara tahun 2003 dan 2007 ... Berkenaan dengan pematangan fenolik ... data yang terdapat di dalam anggur sebanding dengan tahun 2003 ... hasil vintaj ini tidak selalu ditingkatkan dengan menunda penuaian. '

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Ditulis oleh Tom Maresca