Terroir adalah salah satu kata buzz yang dipeluk oleh semua orang di dunia arak, tetapi apa sebenarnya maksudnya? Dan adakah ia benar-benar memberi kesan kepada wain yang dituntut pengeluar? Rupert Joy menggali lebih dalam untuk mengetahui
Terroir adalah salah satu kata buzz yang dipeluk oleh semua orang di dunia arak, tetapi apa sebenarnya maksudnya? Dan adakah ia benar-benar memberi kesan kepada wain yang dituntut pengeluar? Rupert Joy menggali lebih dalam untuk mengetahui
kuwtk musim 11 episod 5
Selatan Condrieu di Rhône utara terletak sebutan kecil Château-Grillet. Tanaman anggur seluas 3.4 hektar di lereng curam amfiteater semula jadi menghasilkan sebilangan kecil wain dari jenis anggur dan tanah yang sama dengan jirannya yang lebih besar, Condrieu. Tetapi ia telah diakui sejak tahun 1936 sebagai AC yang terpisah, dan dijual dengan harga lebih banyak lagi. Pemiliknya, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, menekankan bahawa keaslian anggur yang dibuat dari tanah granitnya dan pendedahan menghadap ke selatan telah dikenali selama berabad-abad. Tetapi sebilangan jirannya mempersoalkan adakah terdapat perbezaan antara terroir Château-Grillet dan Condrieu.
Idea bahawa sebidang tanah tertentu menghasilkan anggur yang sangat baik bukanlah perkara baru. Ahli falsafah, John Locke, yang mengunjungi Bordeaux pada tahun 1677, mencatat 'kekhususan di tanah' Château Haut-Brion yang membezakannya dari negara jirannya. Sebuah buku oleh Abbot Arnoux, yang diterbitkan di London pada tahun 1728, mengaitkan kehebatan Montrachet di Burgundy pada jalur bumi tertentu di Côte d'Or.
Apa yang menjadi fenomena moden ialah penggunaan perkataan 'terroir' untuk menerangkan idea. Konotasi bahasa Perancisnya yang asli adalah pejoratif. Sehingga pertengahan abad ke-20, vin terroité bermaksud anggur pedesaan dan bersahaja dengan, paling baik, semacam pesona yokel dan, paling buruk, kesalahan. Anggur dengan goût de terroir (rasa terroir) adalah wain yang dibuat-buat dengan rasa yang tidak enak atau anggur busuk. Idea terroir sebagai atribut yang lebih positif tidak muncul sehinggalah lahirnya sistem AC pada tahun 1930-an.
Setiap orang mempunyai definisi terroirnya sendiri. Mungkin yang paling mudah adalah penulis anggur Amerika, Matt Kramer, yang menggambarkannya sebagai 'entah bagaimana'. Sebilangan besar definisi Perancis, termasuk definisi INAO (badan yang bertanggungjawab untuk sistem AC Perancis), merangkumi empat elemen penting: ciri fizikal tempat (terutama tanah dan pendedahan), iklimnya, varieti anggur yang digunakan dan peranan yang dimainkan oleh manusia .
peluang baru di y & r
Sedikit orang akan mempertikaikan premis dasar bahawa anggur memperoleh ciri-ciri tertentu dari tempat di mana anggur mereka ditanam, dan lelaki itu berperanan dalam menyatakan ciri-ciri tersebut. Tetapi memandangkan hampir setiap pengeluar wain hari ini mengaku menghasilkan wain yang menghormati terroir, dan mengaku mengambil pendekatan 'non-intervensi', pengguna mempunyai setiap alasan untuk bertanya-tanya apa maksud terroir dalam praktiknya.
siapa yang akan memenangi suara 2015
Akar terroir
Mungkin kerana perkataan itu serupa dengan 'medan', kami cenderung mengaitkan terroir terutamanya dengan tanah. Ini seterusnya dapat mendorong persepsi bahawa anggur secara langsung memperoleh rasa dari tanah di mana mereka ditanam.
Contoh klasik adalah Chablis, salah satu wain paling terkenal di dunia. Walaupun dibuat dari varieti anggur yang terdapat di mana-mana, ungkapan Chablis dari Chardonnay tidak seperti yang terdapat di wilayah lain. Anggur yang paling terkenal berasal dari marmer chalky Kimmeridgian yang lembut, terdiri dari cangkang tiram prasejarah.
Pengeluar dan penulis wain sering membuat kaitan antara rasa khas yodium flinty-yodium dengan geologi wilayah. “Bagaimana lagi anda dapat menjelaskan nota beriodium di Chablis jika tidak berdasarkan komposisi tanahnya?” Tanya Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'Anda tidak dapat merasakan rasa ini di Chardonnays yang ditanam di tempat lain.'
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