Champagne crus menikmati eksklusiviti mereka, namun 17 kebun anggur grand cru masih belum diketahui. GILES FALLOWFIELD bertanya apa yang masing-masing dibawa ke meja, dan mengapa mereka tidak muncul di label.
Champagne mempunyai banyak persamaan dengan Burgundy, jiran kebun anggur terdekatnya. Champagne crus mempunyai persamaan varietas anggur Pinot Noir dan Chardonnay dan oleh itu, jika anda dapat melihat ke luar gelembung di Champagne, hasilkan wain dengan profil rasa yang serupa. Kedua-duanya menggunakan sistem penilaian kualiti yang sama, dengan kebun anggur teratas di setiap sebutan yang ditetapkan sebagai grand cru, dan cru perdana ke tahap berikutnya ke bawah.
Walau bagaimanapun, sementara di Burgundy, istilah grand dan premier cru ditulis dengan jelas pada label sebilangan besar wain yang berhak menggunakannya, ia tidak terdapat di banyak botol Champagne. Mengapa tidak? Sebahagiannya kerana di era moden, penjualan Champagne crus didominasi oleh jenama seperti Moët & Chandon, Laurent-Perrier dan Veuve Clicquot. Hasilnya, konsep grand cru Champagne belum benar-benar dikembangkan. Tetapi pengguna lebih cenderung menemui syarat-syarat ini pada masa akan datang.
Jadi apa itu Grand Cru Champagne, mengapa tidak lebih banyak wain dijual seperti itu? Dan mengapa kebun-kebun anggur terkemuka di Champagne tidak begitu terkenal dengan Chambertin, Clos Vougeot dan Le Montrachet?
Di Champagne, semua 318 kampung dinilai dengan kualiti dalam sistem Echelle des Crus (secara harfiah 'tangga pertumbuhan') dan diberi penilaian klasifikasi antara 100 hingga 80% (peringkat terendah). Sebanyak 257 daripadanya dinilai di antara 80 dan 89. Satu derajat lebih tinggi datang dari 44 crus perdana, yang merangkumi klasifikasi mereka dari 90 hingga 99. Bahagian atas cerucuk adalah 17 kampung grand cru, semuanya dinilai 100% di Echelle des Crus.
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